A good meal, finally, and a lost day

We left cramped Taormina (I have never been to a place that so desparately clings to the side of a mountain like Taormina...you get the feeling that one trip, and you will slip to a certain, rocky, and finally wet death) yesterday for Siracusa. The drive was fine, except we had to get off the main Autostrade, and onto a much lesser highway, much more trafficky.

We found Siracusa and our hotel without incident. A lovely little bed and breakfast overlooking the marina and featuring a not-overbearing maritime theme. Our hotel clerk directed us to lunch nearby...Porta Marina something or other. It was the best meal of the trip. Finally something worth celebrating food-wise: risotto marinara with seafood (shrimp, mussels, and squids) and Leslie consumed an entire giant bowl of mussels in tomato sauce. There were two large Italian families in the restaurant other than us, and after the initial discomfort of our arrival, everyone settled down to a lovely Sunday afternoon dinner.

Off to hike across town to the archeological museum only to find it very closed. Today being Monday, it is also closed. As will be, we have realized, all other museums in the city. So we have opted for a quiet day of reading and, for Leslie, cancelling his lost credit card.

Oh, and last night we committed the mortal travelers sin. Elected to eat dinner on the touristy piazza. And we paid! It was actually inedible, and pricey at that. (And we believe that's where Leslie may have lost his card.) To make up for that pitiful episode, I found and forced down a fried rice ball finally (stuffed with pancetta and cheese) and it was, like all great street food, transcendent.

A LATER NOTE...

Actually, as in all things Italian, we found the archeological park, despite all indications in guide books and signs to the contrary, to be open today. So we ventured in to take a gander at the Greek and Roman amphitheaters and Dionysus' ear (a curved cave thingy). Leslie enjoyed particularly the aptly Italian description of one of the features of the park. Without acknowledging the ridiculousness of the sentence, the guide told him, very seriously: 'Follow this street and there you will find Archimedes' Tomb. But there are no signs. Also, it is not Archimedes Tomb. It is a Roman tomb.' We get a lot of that. Siracuse, if you must know, is yet another famous Greek settlement. In addition to the archeological park (incidentally the Greek theater is where Aeschylus premiered several of his plays...wild, man), Siracusa features one of the lovliest piazzas we've seen so far. Smooth, white stone covers the piazza which is surrounded by a very cool duomo (built on and incorporating part of the ancient Temple of Athena...the columns are used to hold the church's roof up!) and a building or two across the piazza characterized by a slight curved front. Full of tourists, like us, unfortunately, but pleasant nonetheless.

We retreated midday to a restaurant next to our hotel (this one recommended by our reliable hotel clerk) and I had a great clam and spaghetti dish, and Leslie a lovely seafood risotto (full of octopus arms, to his displeasure). The food was simple but perfect. We are finally hitting something of a food stride! Tonight we are tempted to return to our restaurant of the first day, the one with the vaulted ceiling and the magnificent risotto marinara. We are gun shy about trying anything else, except perhaps another rice ball.

This afternoon, I spent a couple of hours in the neighborhood laundry, in yet another Italian experience. No one in a rush, and no one especially concerned about my wet clothes sitting and waiting for 45 minutes for a dryer while the operators chatted with friends in the street. It all got done eventually.

After coffee and bread and cheese on the roof, we depart tomorrow, early perhaps, for Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples! Ciao.